When you’re shopping land, the big questions aren’t just price—they’re the size of a lot, the rules attached to it, and how your future home will live on that site. Buyers constantly ask versions of the same things: what’s the best size of lot for our family; how do we determine lot size; is 1500 square feet enough; how big is 2000 sq ft; what’s the size of a normal house and the square feet of average house; how does the average square foot home compare to what we want? The right answer blends three pieces: local regulations, the realities of the lot itself (shape, slope, access, utilities), and the lifestyle you’re designing for. Get those aligned and any plan—from a compact urban home to a 2000 square foot house—will feel intentional rather than compromised.
Regulations first
Before you fall for a view or a street, confirm the rules that govern buildability:
- Zoning basics: permitted use, setbacks, lot coverage, floor area limits (FSI/GFA), maximum height, parking, and accessory structures.
- Encumbrances: easements, rights-of-way, utility corridors, conservation or heritage overlays, and tree protection.
- Access & frontage: legal road access, curb-cut permissions, and turning radii for driveways/garages.
- Subdivision history: severance potential, minimum lot sizes, corner-lot sight triangles, and daylighting controls.
These constraints decide your footprint, massing, and even where doors, windows, and garages can go—long before design details.
Lot shape matters as much as lot size
- Rectangular: efficient inside setbacks; easiest for standard floor plans and parking.
- Pie (narrow front, wide rear): brilliant for privacy and big backyards; plan garage carefully.
- Reverse pie (wide front, tighter rear): great curb appeal; rear yard can feel constrained.
- Corner: two street fronts, more sun angles and presence; larger street-side setbacks can shrink the buildable box.
- Flag/panhandle: private approach and seclusion; confirm fire access, snow storage, and service routing.
- Irregular: custom design can unlock amazing courtyards and light, but requires thoughtful siting
Lot Shape & Proportions: Wide vs. Deep (and Everything in Between)
When you determine lot size, don’t stop at total square footage—look closely at shape and proportions. A wide lot (e.g., 60’×100′) makes garages and side-yard windows easier and often delivers a more usable backyard for a 2000 square foot house. A deep lot (e.g., 30’×150′ or 40’×120′) can be perfect if you plan to build up (two storeys) and keep a long, private rear yard. Pie and reverse-pie lots reshape outdoor living—wide-rear pies feel generous and private; wide-front lots boost curb appeal but can tighten the back. Corner and flag/panhandle parcels add unique possibilities, but confirm sightlines, snow storage, and access. In tight urban fabric, smart two-storey plans make 1500 square feet or how big is 2000 sq ft live larger without sacrificing yard space.
Setbacks, Coverage, FSI & Easements: What Really Defines Your Build Box
Local by-laws (setbacks, lot coverage, FSI/GFA, height) plus title items (easements, rights-of-way, conservation buffers) decide your true buildable rectangle—more than the raw size of a lot. On narrow frontage, side-yard setbacks and parking geometry can steer where your entries, windows, and stairs land. Easements for utilities or shared access may shift the footprint or landscaping. If you’re weighing the size of a normal house versus the lot, consider building up (smaller footprint, more yard) rather than out (larger footprint, bigger single-storey). That choice keeps your target near the square feet of average house in your area while respecting the rules that shape massing and privacy.
Context and services
- Rectangular: efficient inside setbacks; easiest for standard floor plans and parking.
- Pie (narrow front, wide rear): brilliant for privacy and big backyards; plan garage carefully.
- Reverse pie (wide front, tighter rear): great curb appeal; rear yard can feel constrained.
- Corner: two street fronts, more sun angles and presence; larger street-side setbacks can shrink the buildable box.
- Flag/panhandle: private approach and seclusion; confirm fire access, snow storage, and service routing.
- Irregular: custom design can unlock amazing courtyards and light, but requires thoughtful siting
Topography, soils, and drainage
Flat sites are simpler. Sloped sites can enable a walk-out lower level and better views but may need retaining, engineered drainage, and careful grading. Ask about soil type, groundwater, and any history of settlement or ponding; these influence foundation design and long-term performance.
Orientation, light, and privacy
Sun path and neighbouring massing affect comfort, energy use, and how outdoor spaces feel through the day. Aim to place main living areas toward your best light and views, and protect bedrooms and patios from overlook and noise.
Access, parking, and streetscape
Frontage width controls driveway options and turning radii. On narrow lots, a rear-lane or tandem solution might be smarter. On corner or flag lots, consider snow storage, delivery access, and clear sightlines.
Quick due-diligence checklist
Survey and title review, zoning confirmation, utility locates/capacity, tree and conservation review, site walk for slope/drainage/noise/sun, and a planning pre-consultation if you anticipate variances.
Land considerations table
| Land / Lot Factor | What to Ask First | Why It Matters | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zoning & setbacks | What’s permitted and how far from boundaries? | Defines footprint, height, garage/parking | Variances or site plan control needed |
| Lot shape | Rectangular, pie, corner, flag, irregular? | Drives layout efficiency and yard quality | Awkward driveways, unusable yard pockets |
| Frontage & access | Do we have legal, safe access and curb-cut approval? | Controls driveway, garage, fire access | Sightline limits, narrow turning radii |
| Topography & soils | Flat or sloped; soil bearing; groundwater? | Affects foundation type, grading costs | Retaining walls, heaving, poor drainage |
| Drainage & floodplain | How does water move through/around site? | Long-term durability and landscaping | Ponding, sump reliance, flood overlays |
| Services & utilities | Water, sanitary, storm, hydro, gas, fibre? | Budget, timing, and comfort | Septic/well sizing, costly extensions |
| Orientation & privacy | Where are sun, prevailing winds, neighbours? | Daylight, energy, outdoor living | Overlook, glare, noise sources |
| Trees & conservation | Protected species or buffers? | Permits, design, and site clearing | Removal restrictions, root zones |
| Easements & ROWs | Any shared or utility rights across lot? | May shrink buildable area | Hidden encumbrances on title |
| Future area plans | Any pending road or density changes? | Resale and day-to-day comfort | New traffic or overlook later |
Services, Frontage & Access: The Budget and Livability You Don’t See on MLS
Whether the parcel has municipal water/sewer or needs well/septic, where hydro, gas, and internet enter—and how the driveway reaches the home—affects both design and cost. Narrow frontage can limit curb-cuts and turning radii; long drives on deep or flag lots add sitework and winter maintenance. If you’re right-sizing, match services and access to your program: a family-friendly average square footage house (say, 2000 square foot house) on a smaller urban lot may lean on stacked plans and careful window placement; on larger suburban parcels, the same interior can stretch its footprint without losing outdoor living. Tie these realities to your lifestyle and timeline, and the size of a lot you pick will feel intentional—not compromised.
Bringing it together
If you start with regulations, then study the lot’s size of lot plus shape, services, and sun, you’ll make confident decisions about footprint and elevation—and whether 1500 square feet or how big is 2000 sq ft makes sense for your family. For interior right-sizing next, read our guide to the average custom home size in Toronto
. Then come back to the lot with a clear program and we’ll tailor a plan that fits the land, the by-laws, and your budget—so your average square footage house target becomes a home that feels perfectly placed.
Both work—the “best” size of a lot depends on how you’ll use it. Wider frontage simplifies garage/parking and side windows; deeper parcels preserve a larger private backyard (great if you plan a pool). Decide whether curb appeal/parking (wide) or yard depth/privacy (deep) matters more for your layout
Older streets and narrow lots can produce very tight side yards. Local by-laws set minimum side setbacks, but legal non-conforming homes, lot constraints, or variances can lead to houses that feel “inches apart.” Always confirm required side setbacks before you buy or design
Generally, you shouldn’t place permanent structures on easements. Some areas allow removable features (e.g., certain decks) with the risk they can be removed for access—and at your cost. Relocating an active easement/line is sometimes possible but needs approvals and can be expensive
There’s no single acreage rule because soils, percolation, and local code drive septic field size and separations. Practically, many buyers “determine lot size” by ensuring room for the house, the septic field + reserve area, and required offsets from wells and property lines—often pushing you to larger rural parcels
Costs vary wildly with distance and pole/transformer needs. Anecdotes range from ~$10k at the property line to much higher when new poles/runs are required; some buyers plan contingencies in the tens-of-thousands for full servicing. Get written estimates from providers before waiving conditions
Corner sites offer presence and easier street access, but they can be noisier and sometimes yield smaller, less private rear yards. Orientation matters too—sun/shade patterns can make or break outdoor living, so map where morning/evening light hits before choosing.
